The Sea is a Musician

“The problem with putting two and two together is that sometimes you get four, and sometimes you get twenty-two.”

Got home from Sibenik in a haze of illness. Made tea, grabbed the tissues. Wrapped up in bed, and slept. The plan was to see the waterfalls of Plitvice in the morning, but the guide hadn't confirmed. My shaking, sick hands set the alarm anyway. Then I knew darkness.

Woke up to sheets of rain and an email saying the tour was canceled due to weather. I was very happy to have that happen. Rolled back over and dozed deep, When I awakened, the fever had broken.

Celebrated with a hot shower and some almonds and checked the schedule for Zadar, home of the Sea Organ. As fine a backup plan as there is.

In theory, it was possible to see Sibenik and Zadar in a single day, but, you know how the equation of hard rain plus low energy works out. Cool to have a second chance. When the good lord closes a national park, he opens up an old Roman fishing village.

Went out to get some provisions from the outdoor market. It felt like I lived here. I knew shortcuts and where to get the best deal. The plan of sticking in the same city a few days in a row seems like a keeper. It was nice to have the market be familiar and friendly.

I bought a new suitcase to replace the one Ruggles ruined. The seller was like, "You Argentina?" I was like, "Me? Argentina? No.. I am from US."

"Oh, US very good! Very good. I have family five years Milwaukee. I give you nice price."

It wasn't a very nice price. Why did he think I was Argentinian? Unless it was a ruse!

A family who couldn't afford a stall in the market walked around with ropes of garlic wrapped on their necks. The dad lifted a clove to my face. I bought a handful of Clementines and some coffee, went home for my bag, and humped on down to the bus station,

Easy little late-afternoon ride up the coast. No worries about the light. Read more Shardik. It's all right if you don't have anything else. The rain stopped about halfway there, and the hills were clean and beautiful, dark and old with birds wheeling around them in lazy formation.

Dozed a little. You have to pass Sibenik again to get to Zadar and I saluted the familiar station. I repeated "Zadar is twice as far" until I was mad at myself.

The driver was playing an Annie Lennox cd. She sure has a nourishing voice. I wrote: "An, Lenx sounds like a breast" in my notebook.

The sea was wide and blue on our left.

Took a cab from the bus terminal. This always goes the same way. There will be a group of three dudes smoking and laughing at one another's coughing. They will be wearing leather jackets. As you approach, you discover who the leader is. It is usually the oldest. He will not speak English.

You say the name of the place, and the old one narrows his eyes at you. A younger one repeats what you have said in the same way you said it. The old one nods and beckons you to follow him. In the cab he says, "First time Croatia?"

Zadar followed the script. I ran up yelling "Sea Organ! Sea Organ!" and they all threw their cigarettes on the ground.

Short little ride past a harbor full of yachts and an aperitif factory.

Zadar was as nice a little place as you might imagine and it was a beautiful late afternoon. Wide, marble plazas and ancient pillars and columns. Slabs of a Roman forum, solid old cathedrals, and weathered fortresses. 

Larger plazas than some of the other places. I saw a crowd gathering for a wedding and kids messing around near some old wells. A lot more life than Sibenik, a different kind of character. The boardwalk area affords glorious sunset views, 

And there is the Sea Organ.

It's "musical instrument the sea plays," a set of pipes and tubes that moan and ring when the tide moves in and out. It's a really comforting sound. Like an old synth or a deep-sea mammal. It's like an all-whale Brian Eno cover band is what I'm saying. 

I wrote "S. Orgn sounds like a nourishing breast" in my notebook.

There's also a "Salute to the Sun!" a large circle full of solar panels. It charges all day long and turns into a disco floor at night. It only lit up a little while I was there. The rain had picked up again.

I walked along the sea listening to the organ, and I watched the boats coming in from the harbor. The perfect little day trip, really.

Dark ride back with a swallow of coffee and more Shardik. 

I had drowsy dreams of pita bread, but when I was back home, I walked right by the bakery without buying any.

I planned to cross the border into Bosnia in the morning. Scenic Mostar awaits the patient lad who loves the bus.